Guide to Utah's Highway 12: America’s Most Scenic Desert Drive

Guide to Utah's Highway 12: America’s Most Scenic Desert Drive
Top places to see, where to RV camp, and suggested itinerary.

By: Peter & Kathy Holcombe

Having driven across most of North America, Europe, and South America, we have a huge appreciation for the diversity of landscapes that we have right here in our own backyard, the good ol’ USA. And we think that Utah is particularly outstanding when it comes to spectacular scenery. In fact, if we had to pick one road to highlight as one of the most scenic in the world, it would be Utah’s Highway 12. It links Bryce Canyon National Park, Escalante, Boulder, and Capitol Reef National Park. It is blanketed with abundant public lands, allowing easy access to get out and enjoy the scenery at very little cost. 

We have broken this guide into five segments and recommend taking at least a week to take everything listed in, but suspect you will want to spend a couple of weeks (or more) exploring the wonders and wilds of Utah Highway 12. This road is also best suited for smaller RVs, like our Winnebago Revel, and for drivers who are familiar with mountain driving.

You can watch a video of our adventure on this road here.

Segment 1: Zion → Bryce Canyon via Mount Carmel, 85 miles (~2 hours)

It’s always difficult to choose the best starting point for a route, especially in an area as rich in gorgeous scenery as southern Utah. But since we had to pick a point on the map, it may as well be one of our all-time favorite places: Zion National Park. 

Zion deserves at least three to five days (or more!) to explore in its own right, so if you have the time, be sure to spend it exploring the national park. We recommend hiking the Virgin River through the Narrows, or checking out one of the many slot canyons in the area (you can learn more and rent equipment at Zion Outfitters). 

Restaurants: Oscars Cafe in Springdale, UT, is our favorite post-adventure stop. We recommend the burrito and a brownie for dessert. Plus, their mustard vinaigrette salad dressing it the absolute BEST! 

Camping: The Watchman Campground is a must if you can get a site, and if not, there are numerous private campgrounds as well as dispersed camping about 20 minutes outside the park. 

• From Zion, exit the park through the East Entrance Station and travel east on Zion Park Blvd/HWY 9. 
• Turn north onto HWY 89 at the Mount Carmel Junction.
• WARNING: There are Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel size restrictions. Beginning in mid-2026, large vehicles will be rerouted from the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway to improve safety and protect resources. The maximum vehicle size that will be allowed to drive the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway will be no more than 7’ 10” (2.39m) wide, 35’ 9” (10.9m) long and 11’ 4” (3.45m) tall and 50,000 pounds. Oversized vehicles can drive around the park on existing roads, which will add an estimated ten to forty minutes trip, depending on route and destination. Learn more on this webpage.  

Segment 2: Bryce Canyon → Escalante via Hwy 12, 50 miles (~1.5 hours)

Bryce Canyon National Park, located in southern Utah, is renowned for its otherworldly landscape of vibrant red and orange hoodoos—tall, thin spires of rock formed by frost and erosion. Unlike a traditional canyon, Bryce is a series of natural amphitheaters carved into the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. 

You can explore the park’s stunning vistas from overlooks like Sunrise Point and Bryce Point, or hike among the hoodoos on trails such as the Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden. At over 8,000 feet in elevation, Bryce offers cooler temperatures, abundant wildlife, and some of the clearest night skies in the country, making it a unique high-desert destination for both adventure and solitude.

• Bryce Scenic Drive is a 17-mile, one-way drive to the end of the park (Rainbow Point) that is well worth the effort. Stop at Inspiration Point, Natural Bridge, Bryce Point, and Rainbow Point to take in the views.
• Hike Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden Trail is a three-mile moderate trail that will take you down into the amphitheater among the hoodoos.

Camping: The North Campground (no hookups) is open year-round and has both reservable and first-come, first-served sites. Sunset Campground is open seasonally and has both tent and RV sites. Ruby’s Inn is located just outside the park entrance and has full hookups, showers, laundry, and a general store.  

Points of Interest Along Hwy 12

As you travel east on Highway 12, some highlights and possible stops include:

• Red Canyon: Right after joining the 12 corridor, the red rock hoodoos and scenic hikes (like Fairyland or Mossy Creek) are worth exploring. 
• Tropic/Cannonville: Small towns with services, art, maybe a snack stop.
• Kodachrome Basin State Park: A worthwhile detour. This park, just off 12 via a short, paved side road, has unique spire and slot-like formations, hiking, and lesser crowds. 
• Powell Point Vista: Between Henrieville and Escalante, this viewpoint shows expansive views, limestone ledges, and ancient bristlecone pines. 
• Escalante Petrified Forest State Park: Just west of town, a short trail lets you see fossilized logs and enjoy a small lake area. 
• Calf Creek Falls: A standout stop between Escalante and Boulder. The Lower Calf Creek Falls hike ( about 6 miles round-trip) leads to a ~126‑foot waterfall and is popular for swimming in the pool at the base. 

Escalante, Utah 

Once you reach Escalante, a must-stop is Escalante Outfitters (also known as Esca-Latte Café & Pizza Parlor) at 310 W Main St. They serve homemade, hand-tossed pizza (various sizes) plus salads, sandwiches, and local microbrews. This is a great place to rest, resupply, and fuel up before heading into more remote roads. Their hours typically run from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. for pizza (check seasonally). 

After pizza, you can spend the night in or around Escalante (there are motels, campgrounds, or dispersed options just outside town). Then get ready for the next leg down Hole in the Rock Road.

Segment 3: Escalante → Hole in the Rock Road, 26+ miles (~1.5+ hours)

After Escalante, you turn onto Hole in the Rock Road (a famously adventurous dirt road) to explore side canyons and dispersed camping. This 62-mile, graded dirt road is not suitable for all vehicles. Use common sense and check the weather before you embark on this wonderful side trip.

Generally, the first 10-15 miles are passable by most vehicles in dry weather, but even the first few miles can become impassable after storms or snow. The road gets increasingly rough, wash boarded, sandy, and rocky — high-clearance and AWD/4WD are strongly recommended past mile 15. Check with the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center for weather and road updates.

Devil’s Garden (~12 miles in): Devil’s Garden is a concentrated area of hoodoos, natural arches, and balanced rocks formed from Entrada sandstone, much like what you see in Arches National Park — but with far fewer people. It’s not a “hike” in the traditional sense, but rather a free-form playground of natural rock formations you can explore at your own pace.

Peekaboo-Spooky Slot Canyon Loop (~26 miles in): This detour requires careful driving and a short sandy spur road to the Dry Fork Trailhead (high clearance vehicle recommended). Peekaboo Gulch and Spooky Gulch are two of the most famous and photogenic slot canyons in the Escalante area, located off Hole-in-the-Rock Road in the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument.

They are often done together as a canyoneering hike, offering a thrilling adventure through some of the narrowest and most beautiful canyon corridors in the Southwest. These slot canyons sometimes require scrambling or squeezing, but typically no ropes for moderate hikers.

• Total Loop Distance: ~3.5 miles (includes approach trail and canyon routes)
• Time Needed: 3–4 hours
• Trailhead: Dry Fork Trailhead is ~26 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road
• Route: Hike down into Dry Fork Wash, enter Peekaboo first, then loop through Spooky, and return to trailhead
• Direction: Most people do Peekaboo to Spooky (clockwise) for easier scrambling
• Camping: The dispersed camping lies just off Utah 24 near the turnoff and includes multiple pulloffs and open areas. You will need a free permit from the Grand Staircase-Escalante district for overnight stays.

Segment 4: Hole in the Rock Road → Boulder Mountains, ~50 miles (~1 hour)

The Boulder Mountains in Utah, part of the Aquarius Plateau, are a hidden gem between Boulder and Torrey, UT, along Scenic Byway 12. They offer stunning alpine scenery, cool temps, and solitude — a dramatic contrast to the red rock deserts below.

Camping: There is abundant dispersed camping in and around the Boulder Mountain. Here are just a few of the options:

• Oak Creek Campground is north of Boulder (on Fishlake NF) — 8 sites plus 1 double, with picnic tables, vault toilets, and potable water. No hookups. 
• Boulder Mtn – Roundup Flat Dispersed Camping, with flat terrain, no facilities, but good views. 
• Burr Trail Road dispersed camping options are also just outside Boulder (before descending Long Canyon) along side roads. 

Segment 5: Boulder → Torrey / Capitol Reef National Park, ~40 miles (~1 hour)

The Hogback lies east of Boulder on Utah Highway 12 and is one of the most dramatic and unforgettable stretches of road in the entire Southwest — and possibly the U.S. It’s a narrow, winding section of scenic byway that traverses a razor-thin ridge of slickrock high above steep drop-offs on either side, with no guardrails and jaw-dropping 360° views. (a dramatic ridge section with steep drop-offs). Continue on toward Torrey and the entrance to Capitol Reef National Park. 

Things To Do in the Capitol Reef Area

Some recommended stops and hikes:

• Scenic Drive (Capitol Reef NP): The park’s scenic loop through the reef, with petroglyphs, arches, and slickrock panoramas.
• Hickman Bridge Trail: Moderate hike to a natural bridge.
• Fremont River Trail / Cohab Canyon: Pleasant hikes near Fruita.
• Chimney Rock / Cassidy Arch: More strenuous, but rewarding hikes.
• Capitol Gorge Road (with the “Tank” and pioneer inscriptions): You can drive this and walk up the wash into the gorge.
• Gooseberry, Sulphur Creek, and Fremont River canyon hiking.
• Historic Fruita orchards where you can pick yoru own fruit (in season).

Camping: There are a number of campgrounds in and around Capitol Reef as well as dispersed camping options:

• Fruita Campground (inside Capitol Reef) — a popular and well-equipped option (reservable).
• Capitol Reef NP – Sunset Campground (depending on season).
• Dispersed / free campsites west of Capitol Reef along BLM / canyon roads are sometimes possible (check local rules).

Segment 6: Capitol Reef → Hanksville / Badlands → Temple of the Sun → Goblin Valley, ~100 miles (~2-3 hours)

After Capitol Reef, head east (via UT 24 / other connecting routes) toward the more remote badlands around Hanksville, then on toward Temple of the Sun / Moon area (in Cathedral Valley, part of Capitol Reef’s remote district), and finally to Goblin Valley.

Points of Interest en Route and in Hanksville / Badlands

• Carr Gap / Waterpocket Fold overlooks along UT 24 near Capitol Reef.
• Cathedral Valley (within Capitol Reef NP): remote monoliths, “temples,” and geologic forms. The Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon are iconic features in that region.
• Frying Pan Canyon, Maze Overlooks, Halls Creek Narrows may also be accessed depending on roads.
• Near Hanksville, you’ll see desert badlands, strange rock formations, and open vistas.

Dispersed Camping Near Temple of the Sun

There is Temple Mountain Townsite Campground (BLM) located a few miles west of the turnoff to Goblin Valley / Temple Mountain Road. It has 9 first-come, first-served sites, picnic tables, fire rings, and vault toilets, but no hookups.

There are remote BLM sites on Temple Mountain Road or adjacent washes, depending on access, but check with local BLM offices.

Goblin Valley: Stops, Camping, and Tips

In Goblin Valley State Park, there is primitive / partially-developed camping behind the butte ("Behind the Butte" East, West, North) in newly added areas, as well as the developed campground. Outside the park, there is BLM dispersed camping around Wild Horse Canyon and north of Goblin Valley is often used.

Points of interest in Goblin Valley: the “goblins” (hoodoos and mushroom rock formations), Little Wild Horse Canyon (a slot/trail), the Goblin’s Lair, and nearby San Rafael Swell / Temple Mountain country.

One Week Utah Highway 12 Itinerary

*Times are estimates not including delays from road conditions, weather, or extra side‑trips. Dirt roads, slot canyon hikes, and dispersed camping will add more time. Make sure you are in a vehicle that is capable of taking all the roads you plan to.

Practical Notes & Tips for Utah Highway 12

• Permits: Dispersed camping in Grand Staircase–Escalante often requires a free permit. Check at Visitor Center in Escalante.
• Campsites: Some campgrounds inside the parks are reservable; dispersed sites are first‑come.
• Fuel & Supplies: Towns are sparse in many stretches. Ensure you have fuel, water, and food before remote segments.
• Vehicle: For sections like Hole‑in‑the‑Rock (especially beyond the first 10‑15 miles), a high‑clearance AWD/4WD vehicle is strongly recommended.
• Road conditions: Many of the back roads, especially Hole in the Rock and roads in Cathedral Valley, are impassable when wet. Always check recent road reports or ask rangers.
• Weather: Keep an eye on weather; dirt roads can become impassable after storms.
• Altitude & Temperature: Boulder Mountains and plateaus get much cooler; desert valleys get hot. Bring layers.
• Timing & Daylight: Slot canyon hikes, side explorations, and remote roads take more time than they look.
• Navigation: Use maps (paper and digital), GPS, and check road status at visitor centers.
• Leave No Trace: Use previously used sites, avoid sensitive soils, pack out all waste, minimize fire impact.

Final Thoughts on Utah’s Highway 12 in an RV

Driving Utah’s Highway 12 and its wild, scenic detours is more than just a road trip — it’s a journey through some of the most awe-inspiring and geologically diverse landscapes in North America. From the crimson cliffs of Zion to the labyrinthine slot canyons of Escalante, the alpine heights of Boulder Mountain to the alien hoodoos of Goblin Valley, this route offers an unmatched immersion into the heart of the American Southwest. 

What makes this drive even more special is how accessible the wild still feels — with abundant public lands, free or low-cost camping, and trails that lead you straight into the backcountry. Whether you're pulling off for a scenic overlook, camping under a blanket of stars, or squeezing through a slot canyon carved by millennia, Highway 12 invites you to slow down, explore deeply, and appreciate the quiet grandeur of the desert. For those seeking not just beauty, but solitude, freedom, and a sense of connection to the land — this is the ultimate road trip.